![]() It’s best not to replace existing systems when prioritizing food safety dollars on improving infrastructure, like installing sanitary frost-free hydrants that will provide an unknown level of risk reduction. That’s why it’s important to assess all risks on your farm first before investing in new hydrants. Photo courtesy of Simmons Manufacturing Company.Ī sanitary frost-free hydrant is indeed more food safe than a standard frost-free hydrant, but the level of benefit is currently unknown. This allows the water level to fall below the frost line without an opening for water that might be in the soil. In a sanitary frost-free hydrant, the water evacuates to a protected chamber that sits below the frost line. Dirty water could potentially siphon up into the water source. This weep hole is similar to if you were to lay a connected water hose in a puddle on the ground. These weep holes are an open hole in the water line that is in direct contact with dirt and the ground. ![]() When the hydrant is closed, the drop in pressure caused by the interruption of flow forces the check valve closed and the water flows out of the weep hole into the gravel casing below the frost line. When the hydrant is open, the water forces the check valve open and water flows out. Unfortunately, many frost-free hydrants are vulnerable to a sanitation risk, owing to their construction.Ī typical frost-free hydrant has a check valve followed by a weep hole below the frost line. Often, growers turn to frost-free hydrants to meet those needs and avoid a broken supply line. of galvanized pipe at the hydrant before attaching to PVC.Frozen pipes are always a concern for northern climate fruit and vegetable growers who need to keep a cost-effective supply of water in various places on their farm. I dug mine out and capped the pipe until I could repair it.Īnother fix might be if the hydrant store would either replace the hydrant if it's under warranty, or if you bought a new one and replace yours and then you would have one to install in that other spot you always wanted one.Ī hydrant installation tip is to be sure to use a metal elbow on the bottom of the hydrant and it's also good to use about 2 ft. Remember if you remove the top and the rubber is broken off and you can't get it out you will really have a leak and won't be able to turn the water on until you fix it. I would go to the place you bought your hydrant and look at a repair kit or buy one so you know what you're getting in to. You will find plenty of exploded views of how it's constructed. I tried this but my rubber was really stuck in the seat, so badly that I even had trouble when I disassembled the whole hydrant.įind what company made your hydrant and ck. If the rubber is torn off have someone weld a lag screw onto the end of a rod long enough to try and screw into the rubber and pull it out. ![]() He had a suggestion which I had tried without success, but it might work for you. ![]() He basically said it was due to bad vulcanization of the rubber to the brass. He said it's unfortunate but he has seen the rubber come off. I just got off of the phone with the Simmons company that made my hydrant. ![]()
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